Welcome to Capestrano |
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Benvenuto The aim of this page is to provide an introduction to our second home in Capestrano, along with an explanation of how to get there, and some suggestions for what to do when you get there. In 2010 Frances, Emma and I visited a relatively obscure village in central Italy called Capestrano. We did so because Frances' brother, James and his wife Debbie had recently bought a holiday house there and had invited us to enjoy a holiday with them. As luck would have it, both Rhiannon and James were on extended breaks in London at the time, along with a number of Rhiannon's friends from the University of Canberra in Australia (indeed, one of Rhiannon's buddies, Monique, eventually became James' wife!). Our James followed us to Capestrano and shortly thereafter Rhiannon and four of her Aussie mates drove together across Europe to join us. Adding to the throng were James and Debbie's four adult children. The only one missing from our tribe was Oliver who was completing his HSC (Year 12) back in Australia. Houses were borrowed to accommodate us all, while the University of Canberra mob camped at the local campsite/swimming pool. What ensued was a fabulous family holiday and the beginning of a love affair with one of the most beautiful areas in Italy.
Given all the times we've travelled to the UK to see family and friends - without having seen much of Europe - it made sense for us to buy a place of our own in Capestrano and have our family and friends come to visit us (especially those based in the UK). So with the help of James and Debbie, some local friends and a good real estate agent we purchased our beautiful little second home in 2011.
We have visited Capestrano at least once every year since, often for several months at a time - with the exception of the Covid years of 2020 and 2021. So far we've had over 40 guests share the experience with us. |
The Region of Abruzzo Abruzzo is a region of Southern Italy with an area of 10,763 square km and a population of 1.3 million. It is divided into four provinces: L'Aquila, Teramo, Pescara, and Chieti. Its western border lies 80 km east of Rome. Abruzzo borders the region of Marche to the north, Lazio to the west and north-west, Molise to the south and the Adriatic Sea to the east. Geographically, Abruzzo is divided into a mountainous area in the west, which includes the highest massifs of the Apennines, such as the Gran Sasso d'Italia and the Maiella, and a coastal area in the east with beaches on the Adriatic Sea. Abruzzo is considered a region of Southern Italy in terms of its culture, language, history, and economy, though in terms of physical geography it may also be considered part of Central Italy. The Italian Statistical Authority (ISTAT) also deems it to be part of Southern Italy, partly because of Abruzzo's historic association with the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies. Almost half of the region's territory is protected through national parks and nature reserves, more than any administrative region on the continent, leading it to be dubbed "the greenest region in Europe. There are three national parks, one regional park, and 38 protected nature reserves. These ensure the survival of rare species, such as the golden eagle, the Abruzzo (or Abruzzese) chamois, the Apennine wolf and the Marsican brown bear. Abruzzo's parks and reserves host 75% of Europe's animal species. The region is also home to Calderone, one of Europe's southernmost glaciers.
Capestrano History Capestrano is in Abruzzo’s L’Aquila province. It is a small town with just under 1,000 inhabitants and is in the fertile valley of the Tirino River with half its territory included in the Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga National Park. It is approximately 220km (by road) east of Rome Fiumicino International Airport. This tiny hamlet offers visitors a unique insight into Abruzzo’s rich history, culture, and exquisite natural beauty. This is the type of place that not all tourists manage to visit but when they do, the experience is like no other. The village is very rich in art, history, and nature. The old town is dominated by the Castello Piccolomini built in the 13th century, on a hill next to the Tirino River in a strategic position at around 500 m above sea level. The castle was built replacing a Medieval fort, of which remains the central tower. Several famous families, like Piccolomini, and Medici, modified the building up to the current structure, completed in 1485. Because of the fertility of the lands and the wealth of waters the area was inhabited since antiquity, as shown by many archaeological findings of the neolythic age. In Roman times the area flourished thanks to a busy exchange route from Aufinum (near present-day Ofena) to the Adriatic, which followed the Tirino river and then the Aterno-Pescara probably along an ancient Italic track. In the Middle Ages there were settlements at Capodacqua, S.Pelagia and Presciano ruled by the monastery of San Pietro ad Oratorium, founded by Lombard king Desiderius in 756 A.D. and preserving relics of St. Peter. In the XI and XII century Capestrano (probably derived from the Latin Caput Trium Amnium, meaning origin of three rivers) rose around a sighting tower as a fortified borough. Feudal lords of the place were ì Bartolomeo di Raiano, Riccardo D'Acquaviva and finally Pietro, Count of Celano. In 1934 a poor farmer, while tilling his vineyard, found the world-famous statue of Italic Warrior of Capestrano. The statue, which probably was a funeral monument of Italic king Nevius Pompuledeius (VI century BC), is nowadays kept in the National Archeological Museum in Chieti. The warrior is 209 cm tall and has a peculiar wide-rimmed cover on the head, a mask on the face and the arms folded on the front part of the body. On the chest and back two round shields protect the heart and he bears an axe and a sword. On the two sides there are small columns, on one of which a mysterious inscription says "MA KUPRI KORAM OPSUT ANANIS RAKI NEVII", which a scholar has translated as "me beautiful image made Ananis for king Nevius Pompuleius". The statue has become the symbol of the Abruzzi. |
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Life in Capestrano |
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Capestrano and the surrounding area abounds in unique Italian history, culture, cuisine, and natural beauty. No matter what time of the year you are visiting there is always something wonderful to do, see and taste. Some things are within walking distance, and others are only a short drive away. The hub of Capestrano village life is in the piazza, which is also the forecourt to a medieval castle. In and around the piazza there is a convenience store, pharmacy, ATM, gelateria/bar/coffee shop, several restaurants, other small businesses, and a tourist information centre. The operating hours for these services vary depending on the season and time of day so it’s best to check for yourself according to your own needs. There is a wider range of shops, restaurants, and services available in the larger towns nearby to Capestrano such as Bussi sul Tirino and Popoli. |
Our House - Casa dei Viaggiatori |
Casa dei Viaggiatori means "House of Travellers", and our door is always open to family and friends who mostly will have travelled a long distance to visit us. Of course we also have some Italian friends who visit us often, especially when we have international guests.
Our house is part of a conjoined building that is shared by other owners, although each dwelling is quite separate and discreet. The building was constructed in the 17th Century which means it is almost 400 years old. We own three levels of the building, and an adjoining room that was previously used as storage area - we've since converted it into a laundry and an extra entertaining area. Our part of the building had lapsed into total disrepair until the top floor was renovated and modernised about 20 years ago. As such we have modern plumbing, electrical fittings and central heating. And of course the house is well furnished and tastefully decorated. There are two bedrooms and two bathrooms (each with toilet, shower, basin and bidet), along with a living area albeit with a rather small kitchen. We also have a double fold-out sofa bed and numerous blow-up mattresses so we can accommodate up to six visitors at a time. A very appealing feature of our house is the terrace that looks out over the valley. The remaining two levels comprise a former cantina on the bottom level (once used to house livestock) and an unoccupied middle level... several years ago we began a project to renovate these spaces but groundwater seeping through the rock face in the cantina has put paid to that project for the time being.
The village piazza is located five minutes up the hill from our house. And it's only a 10 minute walk to James Elston's house on the other side of the village.
There is a commercially operated swimming pool with a bar and restaurant, located about three kilometres out of town in the Tirino Valley.
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Things to See and Do |
Walking or Bike Riding
There is no shortage of beautiful walks in and around the village, or a short drive away into the mountains. Among our favourite routes is an 8km walk from home along the valley to cross the Tirino river near the swimming pool and returning via Capodacqua. Most of the walking trails around Capestrano also accommodate mountain bikes. It's also relatively safe to ride on the back roads in the area. We have a bike you can borrow at any time, and there is also a eco/sports tourism company based in nearby Capodacqua where you can hire bikes or participate in one of their guided group rides. |
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Ancient Ruins
We are blessed with historical sites all around Capestrano, including the magnificent ancient castle and fortifications at Rocca Calascio. This castle was built in the 10th century and was the highest elevation of any castle in the Apennines with a commanding view along the Tirino valley and over the Navelli Plains. It was badly damaged by an earthquake in the 13th century but the ruins remain as a reminder of its once imperious presence. |
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Exploring the Tirino Valley
The source of the Tirino River is only a few kilometers outside Capestrano, and it flows through the valley past Bussi and on towards Popoli. It is fed by subterrainean aquifiers that keeps the water flowing at a constant temperature of a chilly 11 degrees celsius all year. Word has it that the Tirino is the "cleanest" river in Europe. It certainly is beautiful. It also abounds with trout, and there is a commercial trout farm just downstream from Capestrano. Not surprisingly, the river is a protected zone with strict restrictions on boating and fishing. Much of the shoreline is privately owned but there are lots of places for the public to access the river for picnics and swimming (if you can handle the chilly temperature). The eco-tourist company, Il Bosso, based in Capodacqua, operate guided canoe tours on the river during the warmer months. |
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Chill by the Pool
There are few things more relaxing than lounging by the pool on a hot summer day. Read a book, have a swim and quaff a caraffe or two of local wine. And be sure to treat yourself to a late lunch of grilled local trout straight out of the Tirino. |
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Attend a Festival
The Italians love festivals (sagra). There are festivals celebrating various events all throughout the year, but especially in the warmer months. One of the main festivals is ferragosto (literally meaning mid-August) which is the Italian equivilant of Thanksgiving when families gather - generally outdoors - to celebrate their blessings. In Capestrano we have the trout festival, and most years the Strano Film Festival. In nearby Navelli there is the saffron and chickpea festival, which features a famous donkey race. And for something different there is a medieval jousting tournament in Sulmona. |
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Enjoy the Food and Wine
The Abruzzo region is also famous for its unique cuisine and the quality of its wines. There are literally hundreds of restaurants to choose from throughout the region, many within close proximity to Capestrano. There are also many wineries to visit to taste (and purchase) the locally produced wines - one of our favourites is cerasualo which is similar to rose but distinctly different and made from the Montepulciano grape. |
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The Hills are Alive with.....
There are few more invigorating things to do than to drive up the mountain into the Gran Sasso National Park and on to a plateau called Campo Imperatore (which means "Emporor's Field"). It is an alpine meadow formed by a high basin shaped plateau located above the Gran Sasso massif, and is the largest plateau of the Apennine range. There is a delightful place in the middle of the plateau to stop and BBQ your own food (prepared meat available for purchase), before having a coffee or aperol spritz at the historical cafe in the shadows of the Corno Grande (the main peak of the range). |
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Lago Sinizzo
Lago Sinizzo is a charming lake fed by a mountain stream, located about 20 minutes drive from Capestrano. It is a magnificent place for a picnic and to go swimming (especially in the hot summer months). Despite its beauty, Lago Sinizzo is not widely known about, and is rarely crowded, even in the height of summer. There is a cafe and a bar to purchase snacks and drinks. Entry fee is 5 euro per car. |
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Scanno
Another great destination a little further up into the mountains is a place called Scanno. Not only is it a beautiful village - with some lovely restaurants, bars and shops - there is also a magnificent mountain lake with a number of picnic and swimming spots. |
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Adriatic Beaches
The Adriatic coast is less than 100 km to the east of Capestrano (within an hour's drive). The closest major coastal city to Capestrano is Pescara with numerous wonderful beaches and scenic coastline to the north and south. One of our favourite coastal towns is Vasto, about 90 minutes drive from Capestrano right at the southern end of the Abruzzo region. |
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Visit L'Aquila or Sulmona
Have a walk around L'Aquila about 35km north west of Capestrano. It is the major city of Abruzzo and was heavily damaged by a severe earthquake in 2009 that killed over 300 people. Rebuilding and reparations are on-going but the city is finally coming back to life. Lots to see and plenty of lovely restaurants to eat at.
A little closer to Capestrano is the second major regional city, Sulmona. Sulmona is the home of the Italian confectionery known as confetti which are sugar-coated almonds traditionally given to friends and relatives on weddings and other special occasions. There are many fine restaurants and a large weekly market in Piazza Garibaldi (the town square). In summer each year, there is a medieval jousting tournament held in the piazza. |
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Up on the Pagliare
The family of our Italian friends, Fabio and Jessica Panella own an old building and plot of land on a mountain plateau about 25km from Capestrano. Their property and the neighbouring buildings are located in the mountains above the town of Tione degli Abruzzi. The location is called a pagliare, which is an alpine area where sheep and cattle were taken to graze in warmer months - they would be taken back down the mountain in the winter months. Many of the buildings on the pagliare are derelict, although a number of families such the Panellas, have restored their properties for use as holiday and recreational homes. There is no electricty or running water. It is a unique place to visit and we always have a magical time whenever we visit there. |
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Winter Sports
If you're into skiing or snow-boarding, or just fancy some fun in the snow, Capestrano is an excellent winter destination. There are numerous ski fields within two hours drive of Capestrano, including several that are less than an hour away such as Roccaraso. There are also several cross-country skiiing areas not too far away. You can base yourself in Capestrano and drive up into the mountains each day or you can stay on the slopes. Lift passes, equipment hire, lessons and accommodation are significantly cheaper than equivalent services in Australia or even most other parts of Europe. |
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Getting to Capestrano |
Most visitors will likely travel to Capestrano by car, and mainly from Rome having flown into to Rome Fiumicino International Airport (FCO). Some visitors may have flown into the regional airport of Pescara, 45 minutes drive away to the east near the Adriatic coast. Buses and Trains An alternative to hiring a car and driving to Capestrano is to catch a bus. There is an intercity bus service called Prontobus that has a regular schedule of buses travelling from FCO and points closer to the centre of Rome. Of course, buses also go in the opposite direction and can be boarded in Pescara. The Prontobuses don't go directly to Capestrano, but there are several stops within 20 minutes drive of our town, including Sulmona and Torre de Passerei. The bus ride from FCO to Sulmona or Torre de Passerei is about three hours, and costs around 20 euros. Tickets must be booked online in advance at www.prontobusitalia.it (with an English page available). The Prontobus stop at FCO is immediately outside Terminal 3 which is the main international arrivals terminal. Visitors choosing to travel by Prontobus will need to be greeted by us at Sulmona or Torre de Passerei. Visitors can also travel from Rome (or Pescara) by train to Sulmona which takes a similar amount of time as the bus journey. |
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Route to Capestrano by Car from FCO |
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Leave FCO and take the E80 ring road east for about 20km until Exit (Uscita) 14 then go east (right) onto the A24 autostrada (also still called E80). |
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You will eventually reach a toll booth where you are issued a toll ticket… the cost is calculated on the distance travelled and you will be required to pay the toll when you exit the autostrada (near Popoli) – it is important to have cash (euro) available to pay the toll; the toll should be approximately 14 euro. |
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Continue along the A24/E80 for about 100km. |
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You will reach a point where the A24 continues north to L’Aquila and the autostrada branches to the southeast (right) and continues as the E80/A25 towards Pescara…take the E80/A25 towards Pescara. |
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Continue for another 80km or so until you reach the Popoli/Bussi exit (which is not far after the exit to Sulmona). Take this exit and turn right on to the local road (SR5) towards Popoli. About 2km along this road you will reach a roundabout; turn right here and go through a short tunnel towards Bussi sul Tirino on the SR153. |
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About 8km past Bussi sul Tirino you will see the village of Capestrano on the hillside to your left. There are several signs pointing to Capestrano along the way, but do not leave the SS153 until you reach a roundabout that is almost past the village to your left (and a sign to Capodaqua to the right). |
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Having turned left off the SS153, continue up this road past an old church and some vineyards. You will then reach an intersection with a U bend to the left as the road continues uphill towards the village and a short connecting road over a crest to link with another local street called Via Vallone (although there are very few street signs in Capestrano). Take the connecting road and turn left onto Via Vallone which becomes a slightly steeper, cobbled road. |
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Continue up Via Vallone for about 400m until you see this white house on your left, and park here, just before the house itself – our house is just above this spot. If someone is meeting you, we will walk down and greet you. If not, you will need to walk up to the house by taking the small road to the left just past the white house you have parked next to. Follow the path up as shown in the photos, and you are there! |
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